By the perspective of its features, materials, and motion alone, the retail cost of about $3,500 for its mention W5200027 on a leather strap or $3,700 for the reference W5200028 on a bracelet isn’t “cheap” (we shall leave it to consumers and commenters to perform their own cost hunting, of course). There are rectangular and square watches, such as the Baume & Mercier Hampton, by way of example, that offer an automatic Swiss movement, sapphire crystal, and also the same basic functions for much less ($2,650). The Nomos Tetra comes with an in-house automatic movement for approximately $2,980, along with the Rado Integral is just available in quartz and ranges between $1,350 and $2,400. The TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph ($4,800) is similar in its angles so has to be noted, I suppose, but it’s so sporty that I do not really find it comparable.In the ending, it’s the tasteful proportions, simple layout, and strong legibility I feel assisted the Cartier Tank triumph and put it in a class of its own. And, needless to say, its own history. For me, higher water resistance, an exhibition caseback, and a hardier strap and buckle will really boost the value proposition of this Cartier Tank Solo XL.It was indicated to me that some significant collection should incorporate a Tank. I state gather what you like and use what you’d like, but there’s a whole lot to enjoy from the Cartier Tank. The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic provides an entry alternative for modern tastes to fans of the newest and the Tank. Cartier turning 170 and also the Tank turning 100 sounds like a recipe for some type of special release in 2017, so keep an eye out. The reference W5200027 Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic on a leather strap is, once more, Cartier’s most affordable mechanical men’s watch with a retail price of $3,450.
Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking line of haute horlogerie continues to expand apace with three new additions that will be presented at SIHH 2017 in just over a month.
The flagship complication, or actually triple complication, is the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon. Powered by the 448-part calibre 9407 MC, this features a minute repeating function similar to that found in last year’s Grand Complication Skeleton, the most complicated wristwatch ever made by Cartier. To maximise the volume of the chimes, the 45mm case is titanium with a hollowed-out interior. And to show off the movement, there is no dial at all.
Both hammers are visible at six o’clock, while the gong circles the edge of the face. Most of the bridges and base plate are plated in black rhodium, for a dark grey finish that contrasts with the steel and silvery rhodium-coated parts. Like all of Cartier’s tourbillon watches, this calibre is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal.
More intriguing is the mysterious double tourbillon inside an airy aperture at 10 o’clock that’s 15.5mm wide, almost 40% of the real estate in front. The tourbillon makes a one-minute revolution on its own axis, and another five minute revolution around the aperture. Like all of Cartier’s other mysterious watches, which are inspired by its mystery clocks of the 1930s, the secret to the floating tourbillon is a clear sapphire disc with hidden teeth on its rim that engage with the gears of the movement.
Limited to 50 pieces, the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is also available with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, or entirely covered in diamonds. The latter two are limited to 30 and 20 pieces respectively.
The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Hour is a more elaborate variant of Cartier’s basic mystery hours wristwatch. The hand-wound calibre 9983 MC inside is almost identical to that found in the other Mysterious Hour watches, except here it is has been open-worked. All the bridges and base plate are in German silver, due to the rigidity needed to compensate for the material removed to skeletonise them.
Both hands float magically, being mounted on separate sapphire discs. And the mechanics of the movement are suspended in midair as well, with the gear train visible between one and four o’clock on the dial.
The 42mm case is palladium, a white, hard metal that’s in the same family group as platinum.
Cartier’s trademark big cat tells the time on the Panthère Joueuse. The diamond-set panther with black lacquer spots and emerald eyes indicates the minutes with its paw, while the ball it is chasing points to the hours.
Like a handful of Cartier’s other in-house movements, the calibre 9918 MC inside has elastic teeth on the gears for the time display to eliminate play and ensure precise motion as well as setting.
The case is white gold and 40mm in diameter, with the hand-wound calibre 9918 MC inside. The diamonds on the case and dial total 6 carats.
Another version available is fully set with 17.8 carats of diamonds on the case and bracelet.